Ladakh solo (Dutch passport): Indian e-visa was enough, but register at the Leh Permit Office for almost anywhere outside town — even the Sham Valley trek. Regular Indian SIMs don't work in Ladakh. HRTC bus Keylong→Leh exists on paper (tickets 30 min before the 5:30 departure) but mine never showed — hitchhiked to Padum for ₹1500, then shared taxi Padum→Leh ₹1500 (~5h, reserve ahead; they leave 5AM). LeHostel is the backpacker hub. Checkpoints everywhere, all friendly.
City · 🇮🇳 India
Leh
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